Blois. The Regal City.

Loire valley is not the place that needs any introduction to Francophiles. As long as you’ve red the fairy tales by Charles Perrault, and you certainly did, you’ve already been there at least in your dreams.

Its numerous and fabulous chateaux  are the main tourist attraction in France beside Paris. Some are more crowded over the top like Chambord and Chenonceau. They are glorious loners surrounded  by fields and forests, or gardens and parks. Others like Azay-le-Rideau have a tiny village nearby, or like Amboise dominate a cute town.

Some are well known but further afield and therefore a bit less invaded by us, the tourist nomads. They are as beautiful as they might be and worth every effort to get there.

Regal city of Blois. Regal, because kings actually lived there, and the hilly city surrounding well preserved chateau is absolutely at par with royal headquarters. It’s simply and divinely beautiful! As you can see.

Image by  Natalie Rapoport

Image by  Natalie Rapoport

Image by  Natalie Rapoport

Image by  Natalie Rapoport

Image by  Natalie Rapoport

Le Chateau de Blois has probably the most turbulent history including  the assassination of  Henri I, duke de Guise, and the most eclectic architectural ensemble built subsequently for 5 centuries. The first castle was built as early as 13^th century. King Louis XII added a beautiful gothic wing in red bricks and stone in 15th. Later in  early 16^th century Francois I   added a Renaissance wing with magnificent spiral staircase. After that in late 17^th    architect Mansart built the fourth and last wing of this ensemble which remained unfinished inside. 

Image by  Natalie Rapoport

 

Image by  Natalie Rapoport

Image by  Natalie Rapoport

This red brick style is so quintessential French, it’s not ginger bread English gothic, which has many marvelous examples of its own too. It  touches me deeply as my favorite places  in Paris are built in this style: Place des Vosges and Place Dauphine, and a part of Place Furstenberg. And my modest house is a far cry echo of this utterly sophisticated style. Each wing in Blois is a palace in its own right. The red brick with its towers, gables, lacy balustrades, elaborate cornices and mansards, arched gallery and white stone pattern is deliciously excessive, perfect in proportions and scale.

The Renaissance wing built in Italian style by an art connoisseur  and patron of the arts Francois I . It is almost similar to the gorgeous spiral staircase he built in magnificent Chateau de Chambord.

Image by  Natalie Rapoport     

Image by  Natalie Rapoport

During the French revolution the castle was brutally vandalized and by 19th century fell in such disrepair that it was scheduled to be demolished. Quel cauchemar! But was given to the  military instead to place barracks in there. It caused further damage but at least saved from vanishing.

Image by  Natalie Rapoport

Massive restoration started only in mid 19^th  when it was recognized as a national monument  and continued well into the 1960-s as the guide told us. Painstaking venture. The wall paintings were brought back in original patterns, the furnishings and tapestries made a triumphant return to some rooms. Not original ones ofcourse, but the authentic period pieces to create an atmosphere. The Salle des Etats Generoux was the biggest hall at the medieval time.

Image by  Natalie Rapoport

The Chateau as seen from the courtyard is an illustration of four vividly different architectural styles and together they create a beautiful ensemble.

There  was a sward fight staged so much to my boys delight. Two bad guys dressed in 16^th century costumes attacked one good guy and all of them ended tragically followed by drumbeat of a mourning lady.

Another clever touch included restored short silent movie dubbed with out of tune piano reviving this horrible scene of betrayal and assassination of de Guise. It was playing right beside the room where it actually happened. Uberdramatic performance as in silent movie should be, but a very vivid pick into the bloody historical moment.

Today the glorious courtyard and the castle as a whole massive ensemble is open to be admired. The panoramic view from the ramparts over the lower town and far away to horizon is breathtaking, beautiful and so peaceful in the morning.

Image by  Natalie Rapoport

Parisians consider everything beyond the Boulevard Peripherique a province.

This is hardly applied to vibrant and lively Blois. Anyway it’s less then a couple of hours away. There are several university departments so probably youth makes it so… waken up. The city is not flooded with tourists, but it’s not feel deserted ether. Blois definitely has a character of its own. Very elegant and sophisticated city which offers pleasurable walks and eager to share all its charms. On some instances Blois reminds a miniature Paris.

Image by  Natalie Rapoport

People are walking along the picturesque Loire riverbank with long arched 300 year old bridge over the wide river, wandering the winding hilly streets enjoying beautiful perspectives, climbing numerous stairs to catch the beautiful view from above.

On one of the squares Place Louis XII a fully equipped stage was set up under canopy and Latino jazz quartet was playing. They were terrific and audience applauded happily. Great concert late at night, fabulous entourage, day heat retreated, surrounding restaurants expanded under the leafy trees were open, what better could travellers wish at the end of the day?