The last few warm and sunny days of Indian
Summer are over. It’s depressingly dark
by 6pm and raining non stop in Toronto.
Some light is much needed. Why not to turn for some glam and glitter to
the most authentic sparkling images. Palace of Fontainebleau is less than an hour away from Paris, proudly displays a spectacular collection of chandeliers different in every room.
The sky was pretty dramatic, so low and heavy, and menacing.
Say France and Royal Palace and one immediately is thinking of Versailles and its parks and canal and fountains.
I’m taking a risk to be misunderstood if I dare to say that I wasn’t that much impressed with all that grandeur and glamour of Kings chambers with all those some when white ostrich plumages covered for centuries with layers of dust and simple plank floors. For some reason I expected …more.
The historical staircase where Napoleon bade farewell to his Old Guard.
Yes , world famous Hall of Mirrors is very
impressive, who would argue, otherwise it’s all very fragmented, well staged
and restored glory of the past, whatever survived Revolution and Commune cataclysms
and people’s violent rage against kings.
Too much was lost to be never retrieved. Nevertheless
millions of tourists grown up on Duma’s and Druon’s loosely historical novels
or at least Anne and Serge Golons’ Angelique series are flooding the palace and
gardens.
Versailles is surrounded with aura of a Myth.
One still can envision unimaginable festivities staged by Moliere for King Sun,
fantastic fireworks and feasts, nobility crowds, enchanted sweet music and
ballet scenes, or be carried away by fragrant dreams of Petit Trianon and the
hay days, or better to say nights, of the glamorous and nonchalant Marie
Antoinette.
The very least I’d like to sound dismissive
regarding the pride and masterpiece of French architecture, arts, landscaping,
royal glory and history. Not at all of
course! Who am I to not to become speechless
walking through those gold gilded rooms with crystal chandeliers? It
took the whole country resource to build Versailles so the Sun King Louis XIV
could proudly shine upon the world.
Imagine for a moment that somewhere in Europe there
are not one but several as strikingly beautiful palace complexes larger and
more glamorous, which suffered more
looting and disrepair and heavy bombarding during WWII, and catastrophic
vandalism, but were painstakingly restored to their formidable splendor up to fantastic inlayed
floors and silk wall coverings. The palaces, gardens and fountains I’m referring
to are Peterhof built by Peter the Great and Catherine’s Palace in Saint
Petersburg area which are now World
Heritage Site and Russian heritage. But this would be the whole new
story…A propos so to speak.
Back to France. Versailles has largely
overshadowed another Royal Chateau of Fontainebleau to such an extend that we
were almost the only visitors on that summer day not to mention a Japanese
group of overexcited tourists.
Very unjust, though it is on a smaller scale but
nevertheless beautiful, lovingly restored, with a huge park which we couldn’t
explore as much as we’d like due to a thunderstorm.
Todays Fontainebleau is a classic layered cake
as much as the famous pastry of Mille Feuille and equally delicious.
As always the case with Royal Chateaux each suzerain
starting with Francis I, who invited Italian architects and Leonardo da Vinci,
left his mark adding the wing or the court, the gallery, the new garden layout
or just redecorating.
Several kings of France were born here and many
honorable guests including Peter the Great of Russia stayed there.
By the late 16th century the Italian Mannerism
introduced to France was reshaped into highly influential Fontainebleau style
which transformed metal and woodwork, sculpture and painting, interior style
and outdoor patterned gardens.
While the Revolution left Versailles savaged
and empty the same fate was destined to Fontainebleau which was in desperate
condition before Napoleon decided to transform the Château de Fontainebleau into a symbol
of his grandeur.
Bonaparte made Fontainebleau
his home and later in1814 he bade farewell to his Old Guard from
the top of the famous staircase at the main courtyard before going to exile. His
Empire style is well preserved till our days and that’s what visitors can see.
Today the Chateau is the home to the Ecoles d'Arts
Americaines founded in 1921, which is primarily
the American Conservatory
offering the best musical education to young musicians. At various years it’s
staff included Ravel, Stravinsky,
Mstislav Rastropovich, Leonard Bernstein and Nadia Boulanger.
The École des Beaux-Arts at
Fontainebleau, founded in 1923, is focused on architectural education which is
only natural considering the setting and live history surrounding the students.
While we were walking trough
the enfilade of stately rooms the whole palace was filled with sweet sounds of
violin and piano as a regular rehearsal was happening in the beautiful arched
hall.
The chateau is surrounded
with a small and very nice little town
of Fontainebleau with traditional carousel on the central square near the park.
A few days prior to our visit there was a European Pony Championship. I
wish I knew earlier, what a cute competition we've missed.
So if you happen to be in the King's mood but not up to spending hours in the line to visit Versailles you can be better off with a wonderful day trip to Fontainebleau: equally beautiful.
N.
* All images copyright by Natalie Rapoport
