Bourges. The hidden gem in the center of France. Part 2.

Bourges is traditionally focused on two noble names de Berry and Jacques Coeur. The latter is remembered as a Renaissance Self-made Man and got a heroic monument in front of his  Maison de Jacques Coeur which miraculously survived  to our days and is considered the rear example of urban gothic stone dwelling, not a chateau or cathedral, that made it to our time.


Built in 1446 it changed hands so many times, being damaged by additions, partitions and fire and neglected for a long time or used for purposes not deserved such a magnificent edifice. Finally it was recognized as a national heritage site and restored to all its golden splendor and glory.

Bourges was a city where Charles VII took the refuge and held his court during the  Hundred Years War with England while he escaped from occupied Paris.

A miserable joke of a king, a disgraceful greedy sovereign who betrayed  a fearless patriotic girl Joan of Arc who made him a king and freed his country. That’s how he is remembered in history.

That’s not all this unpleasant character did. He had another faithful servant who helped him rise to power and glamour. The extraordinary man who solemnly supported French army against English, who established trading network far and beyond, especially with Italy, who was  one of the influential figures of the time in trade and politics. His name was Jacques Coeur – l’Argentier de Roi, King’s minter and financier, ambassador to Pope’s court , and much much more. He was a successful merchant, talented entrepreneur, businessmen and adventurer who did for glory and prosperity of France way more than the king.

There’s not much information about his life, even no mistresses names, but what is known makes him look exceptional and honest and unforgivingly rich. And his miserable Majesty Charles VII  didn’t forgive. Kings are known to be prone to short memory loss when it comes to gratitude, and being envious and vindictive instead. Therefore history deems Jacques Coeur as a tragic victim of kings ingratitude.

I liked this impressionist view from the palace.

Judging from his achievements and all that sculptural fun the craftsmen had expressing themselves in decorating his house one can tell Jacques Coeur had a zest for life. And he celebrated the fruits of his labor, and family, and life. And this certainly turned many faces green with envy at the time.


Soon after his beautiful palace was completed and on peak of his endeavors Jacques Coeur was wrongfully  charged with treason. Was disgraced in 1451, imprisoned and tortured.

Fortunate enough he had not only loyal enemies but really loyal friends too who stood by him risking their lives. They helped him to escape and nurtured him back to feet. He found his new home in Italy as Pope had a great respect to him and highly regarded his achievements.


He tirelessly travelled the land and sailed the seas establishing trade network. He build galleases of France and established Mediterranean Merchant Fleet for Charles VII. He lived in full an adventurous life true to his motto “Nothing is impossible for a brave heart” and ended it as a hero wounded in the naval expedition for Pope against Turks. What a life!


I’m wondering how Hollywood could overlook such an outstanding figure of Joan of Arc contemporary? His life had more than enough drama  to create  an epic scale movie in Brave Heart / Robin Hood magnitude. Whom would you see to play a lead in this biopic?

Everything bears Coeur’s Coat of Arms – the Heart and the scallop.

His motto “Nothing is impossible for a brave heart”

What an elaborate work of blacksmiths.

Isn’t it gorgeous? The central stairwell, arched galleries, elegant windows, lacy gables, beautiful mansards and cornices. Everyday scenes carved in stone, musicians, merchants, servants and exotic creatures, scary gargoyles and funny ones. The chronicles of time.

Jacques Coeur had a great taste in and out. The grand reception hall with giant fireplace  and musicians balcony is a masterpiece.  Sadly all interiors and furnishings and wall décor vanished long ago and only a  small part open for visitors, but this hall and the stairwell could be enough to imagine the  grandeur of Palais.

What we see from the small square is an asymmetrical gatehouse, an entrance to the inner courtyard and galleries.

This beautiful façade absolutely fascinated me since when I was a little girl and used to go through fathers architectural books. I’ve seen many beautiful palaces there but this particular one I imagined to be exactly the place where Cinderella and Prince could live happily ever after. This sepia image was imprinted in girls dreams. And ages later I was about to see it.

The light-and-sound  show at  Palais de Jacques Coeur

Beautiful scenes of the past, pictures captured from Renaissance tapestries, paintings, illustrations  and frescoes  projected onto facade with flute and strings music on the background, accentuated gothic architectural details, windows, lacy towers and bas-reliefs . 

It was absolutely fantastic journey right into 15th century, unforgettable  one!

Bourges. The hidden gem in the center of France. Part 1.

The first  thing I’d like to do is to say HUGE Thank You! To my dear talented friend Virginia , whose blog Paris Through My Lens I admire, for introducing me  so generously to you.

Merci beaucoup dear Virginia.

And thank you very much to everyone for visiting my blog and leaving such encouraging comments. Your support means a world to me and I’m thrilled to meet new friends and discover new blogs!

We’ll travel together. I’d love to share with you whatever jewel I find.

Welcome to my blog.

City of Bourges is right in the center of France  and on the crossroads of history. A stronghold once conquered by Romans, whose presence you still can see, and a prosperous city of the 16-th century where exactly we found ourselves today.

We got there at the dusk when everything gets a marvelous golden glow. Magic!

But nothing was as incredibly beautiful as wandering these peaceful streets at night.

With soft light from windows above, the streets in historic center are lit with those famous French lanterns which are nowadays such a hit on all antique markets.

Beautiful, lovingly preserved mostly medieval city of Bourges with rows of authentic maisons de bois - half-timber houses and narrow cobble stone streets, gorgeous little squares and tiny babbling fountains,  breathtaking Palais de Jacques Coeur and world known St. Etienne Cathedral, secret alleys, hidden passages behind the  ramparts, lanterns and cute courtyards, grand Hotels particuliers and XVIII century townhouses. 

This entire block is actually a colourful trompe-l'oeil painted on the side wall.

The historical center is a pedestrian zone and is a part of proudly restored national heritage. It’s kind of a miracle that people haven’t abandon this tiny dwellings in favor of more comfortable contemporary housing at outskirts, where traffic allowed and most of the businesses located. But they stay there for many generations, and judging from how every detail is attended with care, they love their city and it certainly shows.

For some unexplainable reason Bourges is largely overlooked by tourists, no crowds at all where they likely should be.  There’s so much to see and  learn and the city is very inventive and generous in showing off all  its treasures to attract the visitors. 

One of them is Route de Lumiere, an array of historical streets nicely lit with lanterns  and leading you into the Nuit de Lumiere.  Spotlights on the most significant architectural landmarks like Palais de Jaques Coer. They are highlighted in the dark with a lights-and-sounds show, when colors, pictures or ornaments projected onto façade and surroundings. Accompanied by  string and flute Renaissance music it creates magic feeling, transporting you through times. Brilliant idea and absolutely free and only a handful of people to see…

Surprisingly there were very few tourists, calm and quiet like having this magic city to ourselves.  An intimate experience. We started to whisper as even a quiet talk echoed.  Wouldn’t you hear a clatter of horses’ hoofs on paving stones? I’d better step aside to let a carriage  pass by.
 

 

Stores with modern, design-y windows are closed. The city looks asleep and it’s not 9pm yet. Somewhere at the end of the street you can hear those unmistakable tinkling of the glassware, light murmuring and it smells really good – the restaurant, means we’re  approaching the main hub Place Gordaine surrounded with gorgeous medieval 4 stories skyscrapers. It was a long day and a nice dinner at such a beautiful setting is a travelers dream. 

Oh this eau de vivre, a bottle of cool Badoit on a hot day and a glass of wine and I’m pretty much content. My husband and son look in awe around while waiting for a meal to come. Unbelievable. Isn’t it a movie set? Nope, it’s for real.

Place Gordaine.

Steep roofs, wrought iron doors, unexpected passages around the corner and people actually still live there for the last 500 years.

It's not a decoration though sometimes it feels like someone shouted "Action!" and in minute , as soon as we turn, it may disappear after the sharp  “Cut!” No, it won't. People LOVE their city and it shows at every step and any direction you go.

I wish we had there a full day from early morning till late night . If there are cities walkable and huggable, this is the one.

Sweet dreams. See you in the morning.


Stay tuned for Part 2.

St. Paul-de-Vence

What always has been astonishing to me is the loving care, pride and willingness of people to preserve their historical past and sacrifice quite often the comfort and advantages of  modernity. They seem to enjoy belonging to and sharing with.

I’ve decided to start our journey through France not in chronological order from Paris to Nice, but randomly following the mood of the day. It’s December, cold and windy.

I’d love to take you to a sunny, warm and enchanted place filled with cicadas screeching, craftsman’s tuck-tuck-tuck, and delicious smell of freshly baked baguette, into the streets were time has actually stopped long time ago so much to our delight.

Tiny medieval village St. Paul-de-Vence is a well known tourist Mecca in Provence, Southern France.  It’s proudly listed in every guide book thus quite a popular destination. During high season narrow hilly streets can hardly bear the constant lava stream of visitors .

It is so scenic and picturesque from any angle, at any corner that you actually don’t have even to point and shoot, just bring along camera and it will do the rest.  Every step brings a sigh of admiration. The only trick is to come early ahead of fellow visitors crowds and you will be rewarded beyond your imagination.

This is exactly the picture every tourist expects to find in la Belle France , the 3D live of  the best books on  the style of  douce Provence. You hear your own steps on the cobble stones and don’t believe it’s real.

St. Paul is genuinely beautiful with all it’s patina, wrinkles and scars, lush green vines climbing freely the walls, flower pots and evergreens, painted shutters, wrought iron gates, door knobs and knocks and all those shop signs slightly moving in the scented wind.

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I wish the word charming wasn’t overused and reduced to cliché, because it’s the best one I can come up with. Graceful ageing. Passage of time. Stories to hear. Two rusty horse shoes embedded into the beam above the heavy solid door which has seen centuries passing by.

You see a tired vagabond knocking at this door on a rainy night hoping for auberge , a bit of bread and wine and a warm place near the cracking fire in exchange for his pilgrimage stories.

Or this window  encased in a thick wall  the only way for the wandering eyes of a handsome passer by to catch a glimpse of a shy local beauty weaving thread behind it.

Can’t you see a gracious little hand throwing a few coins out of this open window to an anxious minstrel performing his ballads on a tiny square below and hoping for more then a coin? So romantic.

St. Paul-de-Vence is not only a historical site, a heritage jewel in the treasure box of Southern France marvels, but a very creative symbiosis with modern art.

Dozens of  contemporary artists ateliers are scattered throughout the village and quite a few modernist sculptures perfectly compliment the traditional views. Artistic community brings lots of life and vibrancy to otherwise sweet and sleepy village so it’s not a cute jar of a tasty homemade fruit preserve but a cool glass of freshly squeezed juice  or wine with a distinctive bouquet.

A touching funny couple. Will she say Yes to his proposal?

A tiny town of fine craftsmen and sculptors who always eager to decorate every possible spot with their art or display collectibles, or just put out a few ceramic-metalic-glass ware with local ornaments and patterns.

Some studios are housed in traditional tiny spaces with raw stone walls and wooden beams, others more spacious in glass and steel carefully inserted in archways and alleys.

This place is so heavenly beautiful, authentic, so unpretentious and natural . The Alpine mountains on horizon, green hills spotted with red roofs, majestic sun light and quietness (let alone tourists). No wonder great artist Marc Chagall made his home here long before the summer nomads took it over for a season.

Happiness to be there is floating in the sky on his paintings like this enchanted flying duo over the St. Paul-de-Vence. 

And this plain and funny gentlemen, ordinary as he could be, questioning the sky with endless stare and standing on his tip toes to be closer, is probably St. Paul himself, just his modern incarnation. He is the first one to meet you at the entrance to the walled village. He is the last one to say a bientot .