Paris you have never seen before. The last Impressionist.

Since Camille Pissarro  and his Avenue de l‘Opera and Boulevard Montmartre in various seasons, the early moving towards the impressionism, since Claude Monet’s Boulevard des Capucines full of golden light and impressionist fame, numerous sketches of everyday Montmartre life depicted by Utrillo in early 20^th century, there weren’t significant French artists inspired by their great city.

The glory passed to photographers like Atget,  Brassai, Cartier-Bresson and Robert Doisneau who pioneered photojournalism , reportage de la vie, documentary, mainly interested in Parisians and their daily moments. But it was later,  in 40-60s when Paris became a glorious backdrop then.

Between the wars Paris was so to speak seemingly unattended by painters. Here comes BUT….

One of the last impressionists was the prominent Russian artist Konstantin Korovin (1861 (Moscow) -1939 (Paris)). He fell in love with Paris on his first trip in 1885, shocked and utmost happy to discover Impressionism which was recently proclaimed into a recognized movement . This freshness and light was exactly what he was aspiring for.  He was successful and famous in Russia  for his innovative and creative talent, the leading member of several influential artistic groups, the protagonist in the Pleiades  of  the best and greatest of the time.

He had a sunny personality, cherished loyal friendships throughout his life and was adored with fellow students. Full of joie de vivre he was always a center of any friendly gathering.

Korovin was passionate about art ever looking forward, developing new ways of color expression, worked a lot for the theatres changing the perception of stage design and decoration.

In 1900 he designed one of the Russian Empire pavilions for the Paris World Expo for which he was awarded the Legion of Honour by the French Government.

He later became an Academician of Painting and a professor in Art School.

He traveled a lot and left a precious legacy of Russian landscapes.

But one of his favorite themes was undoubtedly Paris since 1890-s. He created beautiful cityscapes like no one French artist of the time. In 1923 with failing health and a handicapped son in his care he got a lucky opportunity to leave Soviet Russia to Paris with lifetime of works for the personal exhibition he hoped to sell to secure his future. To his gravely dismay the collection vanished on its way to be never retrieved. The ageing artist who was heartbroken to leave his homeland and friends behind came to Paris devastated and totally financially broke.

He painted Paris Boulevards and Cafes well into 30-s to make ends meet along with Russian Winters for displaced and nostalgic compatriots immigrants. He also worked tirelessly on stage designs for many leading opera theatres throughout the world.

via here

Always known as a stylish gentleman, generous and cheerful, bright and ever talented  he slowly succumbed to the bitterness and hardships of the time. His big heart gave up just a few months before his Paris painted in its splendor and glittering lights, with glorious sun and mysterious shadows, colorful fete de la vie and oblivious crowds, its grisaille and tristesse was defeated  and occupied by Nazi.

Konstantin Korovin left a legacy of beautiful paintings of Paris he remembered and loved. 

Happy New Year and the Best Wishes to everyone!

Thank you for visiting and supporting my blog in its first year and see you in 2013 !

*Many thanks to someone who put together this collection along with one of my favorite songs by Francoise Hardy.

The Skylights of Le Bon Marche

Today’s post by Vicky Archer of French Essence about 160 anniversary of the famous Parisian department store Le Bon Marche inspired me to do a bit of a research.

Notice the perforated ceiling base. And the modern furniture installation is quite at home.

It happened to be a world’s first department store established by Aristide Boucicaut and located on Rue du Bac. (Actually the Brits has another opinion regarding firstness.)

Later the successful growth of the business lead to new additions when architects Boileau and Laplanche were commissioned to enlarge the store sugnificantly between 1869 and 1887.

Around 1877 they contracted Gustave Eiffel to built the metal/glass roof,  the first structure of this kind in the world . That’s why the Bon Marche building is considered a  monument of architectural innovation and a landmark not to be missed.

The ceiling is magnificent !  The day light is streaming trough the ornamented glass.

That is exactly why I was there, to see beautiful interior design and take a glimpse of furniture/lighting department which was quite impressive.

 I can only imagine how beautifully the store will be decorated for the upcoming event.

 This handmade lounge chaise caught my attention as well as a very original light fixture below.

I was probably too preoccupied with the skylights and didn't pay much attention to the goods. Just wondering the galleries was a pleasure. Maybe next time in Paris...


* All images copyright by Natalie Rapoport

Le Style Guimard . Part 1.

Whenever someone thinks of Paris or tries to imagine, a few hallmarks inevitably come up to the mind: Tour Eiffel,  Notre Dame, Café, Metro. Then shortly come balconies, street lights, river banks and bridges, and then miscellaneous things that make Paris yours  if only for a moment.

These familiar staples sketched in the memories, glimpsed in the corner of the vintage postcard, or blurred in the background of an old photo immediately whisper Pa-ris …

That’s the instant power of the image over the words.

 If you've ever been to Paris you won't forget Metro, it's exotic jewel like entrances. I love the elegant inscription : Metropolitain, not a subway, sub or tube.

L'architecte d'art  Hector Guimard is best of all known as  the creator of Le Style Metro for those Parisian metro entrances built in 1900  for the World Fair.

Style Guimard made him immortal. He was one of the most prominent architects  and the gate keeper of this highly influential and sharply declined Art Nouveau style flourished in France and throughout the world somewhat between 1895-1914. Not all of his masterpieces survived. Several were demolished in his life time like the beautiful concert hall Salle Humbert de Romans  among others. Many metro entrances were removed much later. (One found a new home in the Sculpture Garden of the National Gallery of Art in Washington as a sample of style, the other serves the purpose in Montreal metro station).

Strangely enough not much is known about his life. The only thing is certain: as much as he was a talented master devoted to a style he invented and developed along with Victor Horta in Belgium and a handful of other distinguished artists and architects , he probably wasn’t  much of a promoter and businessman. In other words his networking as we call it today in finding wealthy clients capable to fully appreciate and support Guimard’s artistic aspirations wasn’t strong enough to bring him noteworthy commissions. He was too ahead of a time and though he rose to a much deserved glory after building Castel Beranger  and winning the commission for metro entrances, he was fiercely criticized at the same time. Even the famous lettering of Metropolitain was much mocked for being too ornate, illegible and pretentious before it became recognized all over the world (needless to remind that Tour Eiffel  also was ostracized at the very same time and called disgrace and a colossal monster. Nevertheless…)

What Guimard created was innovative indeed. He introduced public to five different kinds of  modular entrances made of cast iron and glass. Some on narrow streets were given only ornate railing, some were more elaborate with glass canopy, called dragonfly wings, as on Place d’Abbesses, the other  looked as a small and elegant pavilion like the one on Porte Dauphine station. Most of them with distinctive flower stems arched over Metropolitain signature. Once the elaborate floral motives were masterfully designed they were easy to reproduce. 

New materials and cost effectiveness  along with a progressively modern look and elegant artistism won over heavy baroque-style tradition  proposed by Charles Garnier  the president of  the Architects Society at the time, who envisioned mini Grand Opera at every metro entrance.

Hector Guimard  unknowingly autographed every corner and square of his beloved city. And for over the hundred years his signage welcomes you to Paris…

To be continued...

*All images Copyright Natalie Rapoport

16th Arrondissement

The highlight attractions are frequented and besieged by tourists as if their main purpose is to deliver the instant image, to remind the visitors put a check mark in a guide book: what can you do if you have 1,2,3 days in Paris...

Then comes the question: what would you like to do if you have….as much or  as little time in Paris?

This time I’ve decided definitely to avoid long lines, navigate away from crowds, take it slooooowly, waaaaalk, enjoy and take the lunch time seriously.

That means keep in mind an itinerary as a mere suggestion. With pausing, shooting, stopping and taking ice cream breaks it’s only an outline, a slight gesture towards a certain direction. Let’s say 16-e arrondissement.

The Art Nouveau treasures by Hector Guimard are mainly scattered throughout this elite residential neighborhood that’s what I wanted mostly to see but couldn’t help  to admire all this grandeur and leafy perspectives proudly stretched out. Wrought iron balconies, excessive ornamenting, rotondes and coupoles, Art Nouveau fluid lines and Art Deco geometry, elaborate gates and fences, creamy cakes over the roof tops and beautiful edifices. Architecturally delicious if only sometimes too sweet.

So Guimard series are coming in next posts and this is just a pretext, a glimpse to surroundings.

One of many interesting things I love about Paris is that all arrondissments are very distinctive in character. The 16-th is very aristocratic and displays probably the most expensive and sought after property dated mostly fin de siècle.

What a beautiful triangle formed by Avenue Mozart and Avenue de La Fontaine. Far from high season frenzy, quiet, with very mild traffic, lush green with the parade of  well maintained elegant buildings, hidden gems and gated villas for wealthy. Seems like a natural habitat for haute couture clientele.

In fact there were very few pedestrians at all and occasional residents looked at me and where I was aiming camera with curiosity. Of course, they used to surroundings to the point of not noticing.

This part of the city between Trocadero and Bois de Boulogne is often referred as Parisian Upper East Side: straight-laced, uptight, buttoned up – polished and impeccable. But not as imperial as Avenue Foch.

No big stores just  a few exquisite boutiques (closed for August), beauty salons, traditional  patisseries, few cafes,  wonderful Marmottan museum underrated and overlooked by tourists, parks and hidden green corners.

Sparkling golden plates on buzz panels at ornate entrances inform you of businesses inside: lawyers and gynecologists the most common tandems, the buttons of latter are shined better. Therapists and physicians are ranked below. The ratio of doctors and lawyers is amazing.

My son was very excited about these toys on wheels and mastered a collection of these cute puppy cars.

And just  as I promised to my small team not to miss lunch and remembering that one won’t get any  after 2-3pm we stopped at the corner of Avenue  Mozart and Rue de l’Assomption at Bo Zinc. A very nice place as you can see. 

The meal was delicious and portions generous. Prices were very reasonable and the staff welcoming which was a bonus. The waitress wasn’t tired of tourists and even smiled back and service was fast and friendly. Not to mention a delicious dessert. Definitely would recommend it as a lunch stop if you happen to be in a neighborhood.

The happy and adorable residents of the 16th arrondissement.

See you soon my friends.

*All images Copyright Natalie Rapoport